Wall changes
Removing a non-structural partition, building a new one, closing an opening, or re-plastering. Structural walls are never touched without proper advice.
Civil & Electrical Work
Good interiors sit on good groundwork. Walls, floors, pipes and wiring decide how the finished home works, and they are the hardest things to change once cabinets and paint are in. Our own site team handles wall changes, flooring, plumbing and rewiring for homes.Because the same team plans the design and does the groundwork, the sockets land where the furniture needs them, the pipes match the kitchen layout and the work follows a sensible order, so one trade does not undo another.

01Types
Removing a non-structural partition, building a new one, closing an opening, or re-plastering. Structural walls are never touched without proper advice.
Levelling the base, laying vitrified or ceramic tiles, stone or wooden flooring, and finishing skirting and thresholds.
Shifting a sink or a point, replacing old supply lines, fitting basins, taps and sanitaryware, and testing for leaks.
New concealed wiring, sockets and switches, distribution board, circuit breakers and earthing, laid out to the furniture plan.
Waterproof coating on floors and wet walls, with a flood test before tiling. This is where most dampness problems begin.
02Planning
Interiors are built in layers. Walls and pipes go first, then flooring, then false ceilings and carpentry, then painting, and fittings last. If a point is missing after the wardrobe is fixed, someone has to cut into finished work. If a pipe leaks behind a new kitchen, the cabinets come out.
That is why we walk the home before the design is final. We look for damp patches, hollow tiles, old wiring and uneven floors, and we mark what needs doing now. Many of these are cheap to fix when the room is empty and expensive to fix after the interiors are done.
The groundwork is drawn on the same plan as the furniture, so the power points for the TV unit, the bedside tables, the chimney, the geyser and the air conditioners are placed before anything is built.

03Electrical
A home's electrical system is only as safe as its weakest part. We use concealed wiring in conduit, copper wire of the right size for each circuit, and a distribution board with circuit breakers. A residual current device protects against shock, and proper earthing completes the safety chain. Wire and fittings should carry the standard mark, and we select them for the load, not for the lowest price.
Heavy loads such as air conditioners, the geyser, the induction hob or oven, and the washing machine each need their own circuit. A single overloaded line is the common cause of tripping, hot switches and worse. We list the appliances you own and the ones you plan to buy, and size the system for them.
Convenience is part of design. Enough sockets at the bedside, near the study table and above the kitchen counter, switches at the door and at the bed, and provisions for TV, Wi-Fi and chargers make a home easier every day. We mark these on the plan with you, instead of fixing them wherever the wall happens to be free.

04Plumbing and floors
Plumbing changes are planned with the layout. Moving a kitchen sink or a basin means moving supply, drain and slope, and it affects tiling and cabinets around it. We pressure-test supply lines before closing the wall and test the drains before the tiles go on, because a leak found early costs a pipe fitting and one found late costs a wall.
Bathrooms and wet areas need a waterproof layer under the tiles. The coating is applied to the floor and the lower part of the walls, left to cure, and tested by filling the area with water for a day or more before tiling. Dampness on a neighbour's ceiling usually starts with a step skipped here.
Flooring starts with a level base. Uneven slabs show up as hollow tiles, cracked grout and doors that do not close. We check the level, correct it with screed where needed, and set the tile layout so the cuts fall in less visible places, not at the doorway.

05Before you start
Most apartment societies set rules for interior work: permitted hours, lift use, debris disposal, deposits and sometimes a written permission for any wall or plumbing change. Check your society's rules early and share them with us, so the schedule is built around them.
Structural elements, such as load-bearing walls, columns and beams, should never be cut or altered without advice from a structural engineer. Non-structural partitions are a different matter, and we tell you which is which at the site visit.
On site, the work is kept tidy. Dust-heavy jobs are done first, floors are covered before carpentry starts, and debris is cleared regularly. The result is a home that is easier to finish and a society that is easier to deal with.
06What's included
For indicative whole-home prices, see the packages. Your final, itemised estimate follows the site visit.
07How it works
Tell us what you plan to change and what bothers you in the home today.
We check walls, floors, wiring, pipes and damp areas, and note what needs work.
Receive a written scope and an itemised quotation, with society rules built into the schedule.
Our site team does the work stage by stage, tests it and hands over a clean, ready surface.
08Inspiration
Illustrative photos to show styles and ideas. They are not our completed projects.



09FAQ
Not always, but check it. Wiring that is several decades old, has no earthing, uses undersized wire or shows burnt switches is worth replacing before new cabinets and ceilings cover it. We inspect the wiring at the site visit and tell you what we find.
No. Partition walls are usually non-structural and can be removed or moved, but load-bearing walls, columns and beams carry the building. We tell you which is which and recommend a structural engineer's opinion before touching anything structural.
Most societies require permission for wall changes, plumbing alterations and heavy work, and set rules for working hours, lift use and debris. Ask your society office early. We plan the schedule around its rules.
Water finds the smallest gap. Without a waterproof layer under the tiles, moisture reaches the slab, shows up as damp on the ceiling below and damages the wall behind the fittings. Coating, curing and a water test before tiling prevents it.
Concealed copper wiring in conduit is the usual standard, with the wire size matched to the circuit's load. Air conditioners, geysers and kitchen appliances should have their own circuits and breakers.
Yes. We mark points on the same plan as the furniture, so bedside, study table, TV unit and kitchen counter sockets sit where you will use them.
No. If the walls, floors and wiring are sound and your layout stays the same, the work may be limited to repairs and a few new points. We tell you what is needed after the site inspection and keep it separate in the estimate.
Our own site team handles civil and electrical work, and coordinates it with design, carpentry and painting, so you deal with one team.
Free consultation
Share a few details and we will call you to plan a site visit. The consultation is free.
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